Las Islas Encantadas. Unspoiled nature. Experiencing the Galápagos Islands means immersing yourself in a micro-universe suspended in time. These islands are associated with Charles Darwin, but also Georgina Taylor, who noted down her own research in a manuscript in 1938 inspired by the book On the Origin of Species. We are Italians, we are Florentines. One of the stories I have reflected on in recent years, is that of a land of art and merchants which produced two explorers: Amerigo Vespucci and Giovanni da Verrazzano. The former gave his name to the Americas, the latter discovered the bay at the mouth of the Hudson River 500 years ago, which was to become the site of New Amsterdam and then New York. They achieved this by setting off from an inland city with no sea, just a small, untamed river. For our new chapter of STEFANO RICCI Explorer we drew inspiration from all things connected with the sea, a labyrinth of nautical charts, research and calculation errors, without which many discoveries would never have been made. Ultimately, we chose the cradle in which the theory of the evolution of the species was born.

We looked to Ecuador and, more specifically, the Galápagos Islands, a legendary place of dreams. In 1831 Charles Darwin boarded the brig-sloop HMS Beagle for a scientific reconnaissance expedition. He was 21 years old and remained on board for five years, during which time he managed to complete geological and biological observations. Specifically, during his stay on the Galápagos Islands, he discovered differences in the anatomical structure and dietary habits between similar animals (tortoises, thrushes and finches). He developed his own theory, basing it on the struggle for existence. Common ancestors who, under evolutionary pressure, are now the offspring of natural selection. He was considered a heretic for decades because of this, and while it is certainly not up to us to enter into a discussion to this effect, we should take a closer look at focal points on which to reflect. Pope Francis says that the Big Bang was not the result of chaos. It is difficult to believe that life, animal or vegetable, was created from chaos, even if many questions still remain unanswered to this day. What is certain is the love for creation here is not a slogan at the service of sustainability. In creating this project, I had the pleasure of sharing with Niccolò, my brother, the thrill of ongoing research in the field. We were immersed in a habitat which, from Las Grietas to El Garrapatero, from Santa Fe to Bahía Bowditch, accompanied us until we achieved a true sense of exploration, encountering iguanas, sea lions, sharks and unspoiled nature. We did this in collaboration with the Charles Darwin Foundation, the premier research institution dedicated to the conservation and sustainable development of the Galápagos Islands. It was an experience that will remain etched in our hearts. When thinking about the great scientist, it was natural to draw a parallel with another man of science from our Tuscan homeland: Galileo Galilei. His theories on the movement of asteroids were opposed five centuries ago by the advocates of dogma. Who knows what the future holds for us. But we all have one responsibility: taking care of the planet, committing to sustainability and the future of the species. A mission that we have proudly advanced for our children and grandchildren.

It has been more than two decades since my first visit to the Galápagos Islands. In preparation for that trip, I read among others Charles Darwin’s narrative of the five-year voyage of the HMS Beagle and his account of his five-week visit to the Galápagos Islands in 1835. I also perused countless photographs of the islands and their wildlife in National Geographic’s vast archives. The images were extraordinary, and viewing them, I wondered, would the place live up to expectations? I needn’t have worried. Galápagos is one of the few places in the world where reality can surpass one’s imagination. Seeing the Galápagos Islands for the first time is an awe-inspiring experience. The islands are unlike any other place on earth, and the chance to observe their unique wildlife and landscapes up close is an opportunity that few people ever experience.

Since my first visit, I have made many subsequent trips to Galápagos. I have marveled and delighted at the Galápagos’s unique biological diversity and its extraordinary land and seascapes. I have experienced the sense of isolation and tranquility that comes with being on the islands. That sense of wonder and excitement was just as intense when I recently returned to the Galápagos Islands with the STEFANO RICCI Explorer team. It was as though I was seeing the islands for the very first time. The Galápagos Islands are a remote archipelago in the eastern Pacific Ocean, approximately 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. When you first arrive at the islands, you are immediately struck by their rugged, volcanic terrain and the crystal-clear waters that surround them. Made up of 19 islands, each island has its own distinct character and wildlife. The landscape is stunning, with dramatic cliffs, lava fields, lush, green Scalesia forests, and white sand beaches that seem to stretch on forever. The Galápagos Islands are surrounded by one of the richest marine ecosystems in the world due to the confluence of three ocean currents. On land, the flora and fauna are unique and are found nowhere else in the world. When exploring the islands, one finds an incredible array of wildlife - giant tortoises, marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, Galápagos penguins, and a variety of bird species. These animals, most of which are naïve to humans, have evolved in isolation and have unique adaptations that allow them to survive in a sometimes harsh environment. Due to limited economic development and strict conservation regulations, the Galápagos remain largely undisturbed by modern society. The islands offer a glimpse into a world untouched by time and appear much as they did when Charles Darwin visited them in 1835. Darwin’s work on the Galápagos Islands, during which he observed and collected a diverse array of plants and animals, played a critical role in the development of his theory of evolution. That theory fundamentally transformed our understanding of the natural world. His studies of the unique species found on the islands, such as the Galápagos finches, helped him develop his theory of natural selection, which proposed that the characteristics of species that are better adapted to their environment are more likely to be passed on to future generations. Darwin observed that there were 13 different species of finches on the islands, each with a different beak shape and size. He hypothesized that the differences in beak shape were related to the birds’ diets and that over time, the birds with the most advantageous beak shape for their environment would be more likely to survive and pass on their genes. Darwin’s theory of natural selection was a significant departure from the prevailing views of his time on the origins and development of life, which held that species were fixed and unchanging. By proposing that species could change over time through a process of natural selection, Darwin challenged prevailing orthodoxy and revolutionized the field of biology. Darwin’s influence, however, extends far beyond the theory of evolution. Darwin’s work in the Galápagos is the foundation for today’s efforts to conserve biological diversity and habitats. Understanding how species adapt to changing conditions and the importance of genetic diversity and ecosystem function, informs conservationists’ efforts to protect and preserve threatened species and their habitats. As in Darwin’s time, the unique nature of the Galápagos Islands makes them today an ideal natural laboratory for the study of evolution and ecology.

Charles Darwin in many respects is the father of modern-day exploration. His work in Galápagos dramatically illustrated the inherent value of exploration and its potential to profoundly change how we view the world. Darwin’s ideas also transformed the way scientists approached their work. Rather than merely cataloguing and collecting specimens, exploration and scientific research became increasingly focused on understanding the natural world and its processes through observation and formulating and testing hypotheses. It was Darwin’s advocacy of rigorous scientific inquiry that has inspired generations of explorers to venture into the world’s most remote and exotic regions in pursuit of truth and knowledge. All of this is a consequence of a brief visit to the Galápagos Islands.

It is quite some years since I first set foot on the Galápagos Islands, located some 950 kilometres west of continental Ecuador. I was on assignment for National Geographic and had done some research beforehand, but nothing I had seen or read could fully prepare me for this experience. Since then, I have been back a number of times for different projects, and I’ve worked on most of the twenty-one islands of this archipelago. Every single time it’s such a privilege and so much to see and learn. The mountains, the sea, the Scalesia forest, the rugged black lava cliffs and the completely unique and, for the most part, endemic fauna and flora blew me away. It’s an incomparable hotspot of biodiversity harbouring over 2,900 known species of fish, a vast number of invertebrates, and many marine mammals, the world’s only marine iguana, endemic seabirds, and the world’s highest abundance of sharks. Of these marine animals, roughly 60 are included on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. There is an ongoing volcanic activity from the mountain landscape of the Galápagos Islands.

The archipelago is reached by four major ocean currents, including cold upwellings of deep water rich in nutrients. Coexisting at this junction are tropical and temperate species typically found farther south. Many are found nowhere else on Earth, and their unique characteristics famously inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection. Scientists have studied these complex ecosystems for nearly 200 years. When Stefano Ricci reached out through my old friend Terry Garcia, I became excited over the prospect of returning, and this time with another slightly different focus. My first contact was a video call with Filippo and Gianluca which gave me comfort about the project. Humans and nature, side by side, in this remote place. The aesthetics of this high-end Italian brand visualised in this remote and extraordinary place felt relevant. Since the worlds of exploration and sustainability are close to my heart, my assistant Jean and I enthusiastically agreed to work with the Stefano Ricci team and shared emotions with Niccolò on this unique project. We started our journey of discovery in this world apart at the Charles Darwin Foundation Research Station. My own explorations had already started as a boy in Dalarna, Sweden. I ventured out on miniexpeditions, exploring nature around our summer house. I sneaked up on loons, beavers, owls, snakes and frogs with a camera I borrowed from my father. When I started taking photographs professionally in 1985-86, it was clear to me that capturing or visualising what had moved me in nature would become the backbone of my entire career. Fragile ecosystems, endangered species and ethnic minorities in peril became my niche, and my assignments for the epic magazine took me exploring on all continents. I love the feeling of being in a place where no one might have been before. These days it’s pretty hard to find places like that, but the sensation of discovery is found on so many levels, both geographically and aesthetically. Seeing things, small or big, that are there for you to experience and enjoy represents a remarkable sensation. The fact that our planet’s natural systems, when healthy and resilient, are support systems, not only for nature itself but also for humanity, is more relevant than ever. Everything is connected to everything else. What we do in one corner of the planet now affects, in real-time, living conditions for fellow citizens in other parts of the planet. Due to this, we can no longer act locally to further global development; we must also act globally to further local development. No matter how well environmental policies are applied in places such as the Galápagos, their continued success now depends on the actions of other nations, regions, and economic sectors.

Environmental protection can only succeed in combination with planetary stewardship. My goal has always been to try to elevate the understanding, appreciation and awareness of our natural world and the interdependence between humans and nature. Regardless of the fact that I have made documentaries, book projects, exhibitions and lectures, the ambition has always been to, through imagery and stories from our incredible world, bridge the gap between our remarkable human mind and our warm emotional heart, between IQ and EQ, if you will. With the current obstacles and challenges facing us all, I strongly believe that by safeguarding the remaining beauty on Earth we have a fair chance of securing a prosperous future within planetary boundaries and a safe operating space for humanity. When we explore, we get to know our world a little better, and what we get to know on a deeper level we cherish and become fascinated by, and ultimately, what we cherish we are more inclined to love, safeguard and keep for the future.